The room is dark except for a fire in the oven and a single, shaky petroleum lamp that lends the air its smell. I sit on the makeshift bed, watching the burly grandmother of the house cook Turkish coffee above a wood-fired oven while the rest of the family is huddled up across the room. We just … [Read more...]
Sick
I was planning to do the write up of my hiking trip to Pankisi yesterday, but instead I was sick in bed the last 2 days. Looks like I caught some stomach bug. Good opportunity to restock on electrolyte powder and charcoal tablets. I'm staying in a former 'capitalist' mansion in the middle of … [Read more...]
Meet My Positively Insane Tour Guide for Pankisi: Khedi Devi Asmadiredja
When I planned my trip to Georgia, I asked around on Couchsurfing.org for an off-the-beaten track experience, I received a recommendation to get in touch with Devi. After a few e-mails (I lost track after #30), we agreed on an itinerary that would have us visit the Chechen Kist people in the Pankisi … [Read more...]
On red hair, beards, and bamboo hats
I remembered seeing a 'worldwide red hair distribution map' and knew there was a little hot spot somewhere in Russia, Central Asia or the Caucasus, but wasn't sure if Georgia was part of it (Spoiler: It isn't). I also noticed that Orthodox priests tend to sport quite the impressive beards, so surely … [Read more...]
It’s 4:30am and 38 degrees Celcius: Welcome to Dubai
A trip starts in the waiting room for your flight. This is the first time you see who's actually going where you want to go. Since I opted to go from Bangkok to Tbilisi via Dubai, I had that moment occur when I entered Terminal 2 at Dubai airport. I originally thought about waiting out my 7 hour … [Read more...]
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